Laos, often overlooked by travellers, harbours a history that is both tragic and captivating. From 1964 to 1973, this serene Southeast Asian country endured the heaviest bombing in human history, a legacy that continues to shape its landscape and its people. Today, visitors have the opportunity to explore these sombre yet intriguing remnants, unravelling stories of resilience and survival.
A Secret War and Its Unseen Scars
During the Vietnam War, the U.S. conducted a covert bombing campaign in Laos, dropping more than two million tons of ordnance over nine years. This clandestine operation, part of efforts to support the Royal Lao Government against the Pathet Lao and to disrupt the Ho Chi Minh Trail, left the country littered with unexploded ordnance (UXO). Up to a third of these bombs did not detonate, causing over 20,000 casualties since the bombing ceased. The ongoing presence of UXO poses a significant risk to the Lao population and hampers development efforts.
The Viengxay Caves: A Hidden Refuge
In the limestone-karst landscapes of Houaphanh Province, the Viengxay Caves tell a tale of endurance. These 400 interconnected caves sheltered 23,000 people, including the Pathet Lao leadership, from relentless bombings. Today, tourists can take an 18-point audio tour to gain insight into the lives of those who sought refuge here, witnessing how they transformed these caves into a bustling underground city complete with bakeries, schools, and hospitals.
Traversing the Ho Chi Minh Trail
The Ho Chi Minh Trail, a network of roads and paths extending from North Vietnam to South Vietnam through Laos, played a crucial role in the Vietnam War. It facilitated the movement of soldiers and supplies despite intense American bombardment. This trail has recently gained renewed attention through the Red Bull-sponsored documentary of mountain biking champion Rebecca Rusch, who cycled nearly 2,000 km in search of her father’s crash site. Adventurous travellers can explore sections of this historic trail, guided by locals like Don Duvall, known as the Midnite Mapper.
The Most Secret Place on Earth: Long Chieng
Long Chieng, once the busiest airfield during the Secret War, remains shrouded in mystery. Known as “the most secret place on Earth,” it was a covert CIA base and the stronghold of General Vang Pao, the charismatic Hmong leader. While access was restricted for years, the area has recently opened up, allowing visitors to glimpse the remnants of this secretive military hub.
Nakout and the Tin Drum Legacy
In Nakout, near the Nam Et-Phou Louey National Park, remnants of another secret landing strip, Lima Site 36, offer a different perspective. The abandoned airfield has been reclaimed by the jungle, but the legacy of war persists in the form of oil drums repurposed into homes and fences by the local Tai Phuan people. This resourcefulness amidst destruction is a testament to the enduring spirit of the Lao people.
COPE Visitor Centre: Understanding the Impact of UXO
In Vientiane, the COPE Visitor Centre provides a comprehensive look at the impact of unexploded ordnance on Laos. Voted the top attraction in Vientiane by TripAdvisor, the centre features exhibits and documentaries that highlight the ongoing efforts to clear UXO and support those affected by it. Visitors can learn about the innovative work being done to improve the lives of those with mobility-related disabilities caused by these hidden dangers.
Laos, with its rich yet painful history, offers travellers a unique journey through the echoes of war. From the Viengxay Caves to the Ho Chi Minh Trail, and the COPE Visitor Centre, each site tells a story of resilience, providing a deeper understanding of this beautiful and resilient country.
This story was first published in tourismlaos.org
